Jumping Spider care guide
Jumping Spider Care Guide
• Lifespan: 1–3 Years • Adult Size: Approximately ½–1 Inch
Quick Facts
| Category | Information |
|---|---|
| Common Name | Regal Jumping Spider |
| Scientific Name | Phidippus regius |
| Difficulty | ⭐ Easy–Moderate |
| Adult Size | Approximately ½–1 inch |
| Lifespan | Approximately 1–3 years |
| Activity | Diurnal (Active During the Day) |
| Diet | Carnivore (Live Invertebrate Prey) |
| Temperament | Curious, Alert, and Active |
| Lifestyle | Arboreal / Semi-Arboreal |
| Housing | Solitary — House Individually |
💡 Jumping spiders are not tarantulas. Their small size, excellent vision, and active hunting behavior make their care and enclosure needs quite different.
Recommended Enclosure
Jumping spiders need a tall, vertically oriented enclosure with excellent ventilation.
| Feature | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Adult Size | Approximately 4" × 4" × 6" minimum |
| Preferred Style | Vertical, front-opening enclosure |
| Ventilation | Excellent cross-ventilation |
| Orientation | Tall rather than wide |
| Housing | One spider per enclosure |
| Decor | Cork, branches, vines, foliage, ledges |
| Retreats | Multiple elevated anchor points |
| Substrate | Thin layer of moisture-tolerant substrate or paper towel |
| Water | Drinking droplets from light misting |
Larger enclosures can work, but extremely large or cluttered enclosures may make it more difficult for a small spider to locate prey.
Front-opening enclosures are especially useful because jumping spiders commonly build their silk hammocks near the top of the enclosure.
Temperature
For Regal Jumping Spiders (Phidippus regius):
| Area | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Daytime | 72–82°F |
| Preferred Range | Approximately 74–80°F |
| Night | A modest drop is acceptable |
| Maximum | Avoid prolonged excessive heat |
Most healthy jumping spiders can be maintained at normal household temperatures.
💡 Do not place a small jumping spider enclosure directly under a heat lamp. Small enclosures can overheat extremely quickly.
If supplemental heat is necessary, warm the room rather than aggressively heating the tiny enclosure.
Always monitor temperatures with a digital thermometer.
Humidity
Humidity requirements vary somewhat by species and locality.
For Regal Jumping Spiders, a practical target is:
Approximately 50–70% relative humidity with excellent ventilation.
The enclosure should not remain constantly wet or saturated.
Recommended routine:
✔ Lightly mist one side of the enclosure
✔ Allow surfaces to dry between misting
✔ Provide droplets on the enclosure walls or foliage for drinking
✔ Maintain strong airflow
✔ Increase attention to hydration during premolt
❌ Do not soak the enclosure
❌ Do not spray the spider directly
❌ Do not allow stagnant, constantly wet conditions
Some keepers maintain P. regius toward the upper end of this range, while other husbandry references use approximately 50–60%. The important goal is adequate hydration combined with ventilation, rather than keeping the enclosure permanently wet.
Lighting
Jumping spiders are diurnal and benefit from a regular day/night cycle.
Recommended setup:
✔ Bright ambient room lighting or a low-intensity LED light
✔ Approximately 10–12 hours of daylight
✔ Darkness at night
✔ Plenty of shaded areas inside the enclosure
What About UVB?
UVB is not currently considered an absolute requirement for successful captive care of Regal Jumping Spiders.
However, some keepers provide low-level UVB as part of a naturalistic setup. If UVB is used:
✔ Use a low-intensity source
✔ Provide shaded areas
✔ Do not expose the spider to excessive UVB
For most beginners, appropriate visible lighting, natural behavior, proper temperature, hydration, and nutrition are more important than adding a strong UVB fixture.
Enclosure Decor
Jumping spiders are highly visual hunters and love to explore.
Provide:
✔ Cork bark
✔ Small branches
✔ Artificial or live plants
✔ Vines
✔ Ledges
✔ Foliage
✔ Elevated surfaces
✔ Multiple places to attach silk
Your spider will usually build a silk hammock/retreat near the upper portion of the enclosure.
💡 Do not routinely disturb or remove the hammock. It is used for resting, sleeping, hiding, and molting.
Feeding
Jumping spiders are active hunters and should be offered appropriately sized live prey.
Spiderlings
Feed approximately:
2–3 times per week
Appropriate prey includes:
- Flightless fruit flies
- Very small fruit flies
- Tiny prey insects appropriate to the spider's size
Juveniles
Feed approximately:
Every 2–4 days
Appropriate prey may include:
- Larger fruit flies
- Small flies
- Small roach nymphs
- Appropriately sized crickets
Adults
Feed approximately:
1–3 times per week depending on prey size, body condition, age, and individual appetite.
Appropriate prey includes:
✔ House flies / bottle flies
✔ Appropriately sized roach nymphs
✔ Small crickets
✔ Mealworms in moderation
✔ Other appropriately sized feeder insects
Prey Size
Prey should generally be no larger than the spider's abdomen.
When in doubt, choose smaller prey.
💡 Do not overfeed. A very large abdomen can indicate that the spider is overly full, and excessive feeding may contribute to health problems. Feeding should be adjusted based on the spider's body condition rather than following a rigid calendar.
Feeding During Premolt
One of the most important things to understand about jumping spiders:
They may stop eating before a molt.
This can be completely normal.
Signs of premolt may include:
- Staying inside the hammock
- Reduced activity
- Refusing food
- Darker or duller appearance
- Increased time spent hiding
NEVER disturb a spider during a molt.
Do not:
❌ Pull apart the hammock
❌ Handle the spider
❌ Force-feed
❌ Offer large or aggressive prey inside the retreat
Make sure the spider has appropriate humidity and access to hydration.
After Molting
A freshly molted jumping spider has a soft, vulnerable exoskeleton.
Do not handle or disturb it.
Allow the spider time to:
✔ Harden its new exoskeleton
✔ Rest
✔ Remain inside its retreat
✔ Recover before feeding
Wait until the spider has emerged and is behaving normally before offering food.
Water & Hydration
Jumping spiders commonly drink tiny droplets of water from enclosure surfaces.
Provide hydration by:
✔ Lightly misting one side of the enclosure
✔ Allowing droplets to form on the walls or foliage
✔ Providing clean drinking droplets regularly
Never spray the spider directly.
A traditional water bowl is generally unnecessary for a small jumping spider because it may be difficult for the spider to access safely.
💡 The goal is to provide small drinking droplets without creating a constantly wet enclosure.
Enclosure Essentials
✅ Vertical Enclosure
✅ Excellent Ventilation
✅ Digital Thermometer
✅ Hygrometer
✅ Cork Bark
✅ Branches or Vines
✅ Artificial or Live Plants
✅ Elevated Resting Areas
✅ Multiple Retreat Locations
✅ Appropriate Feeder Insects
✅ Fine Spray Bottle
Safe Substrates
Jumping spiders don't require a deep substrate.
Good options include:
✔ Paper Towel
✔ Bare Bottom
✔ Reptile-safe soil used in a properly maintained naturalistic enclosure
✔ Bioactive substrate with appropriate cleanup organisms
For a simple beginner enclosure, a bare bottom or paper towel is perfectly acceptable.
Avoid These
❌ Deep loose substrate
❌ Cedar
❌ Pine
❌ Chemical-treated wood
❌ Sharp decorations
❌ Standing water
❌ Poor ventilation
❌ Constantly saturated substrate
❌ Heat rocks
❌ Direct heat lamps over tiny enclosures
❌ Handling during a molt
Common Health Problems
Watch for:
Dehydration
Signs can include:
- Very small or shriveled abdomen
- Weakness
- Reduced activity
- Difficulty climbing
Provide appropriate drinking droplets and correct the enclosure's hydration routine.
Molting Problems
Possible causes include:
- Inadequate hydration
- Poor nutrition
- Improper environmental conditions
- Disturbance during molting
Never attempt to physically assist a spider during a molt unless specifically directed by an experienced exotic veterinarian.
Injury
Jumping spiders are tiny and fragile.
Falls, crushing injuries, and rough handling can be serious.
Mites / Mold
Excessive moisture and poor ventilation can encourage mold and other unwanted organisms.
Good ventilation and allowing surfaces to dry between misting help reduce these problems.
Refusing Food
A jumping spider refusing food does not automatically mean it is sick.
It may be:
- Preparing to molt
- Recently molted
- Already well fed
- Stressed after relocation
- Adjusting to a new enclosure
Observe behavior and body condition before assuming something is wrong.
If your spider remains weak, injured, severely dehydrated, or otherwise appears abnormal, contact an exotic veterinarian experienced with invertebrates.
Handling
Jumping spiders can become accustomed to gentle human interaction, but they are extremely small and delicate.
Safe Handling Tips
✔ Allow the spider to walk onto your hand voluntarily
✔ Keep your hands low over a table or other safe surface
✔ Move slowly
✔ Keep sessions short
✔ Avoid sudden movements
✔ Keep doors and windows closed
❌ Never grab the spider
❌ Never pull it from its web
❌ Never handle during a molt
❌ Never handle over a great height
A jumping spider can move surprisingly quickly, and an accidental fall can cause serious injury.
Indigo Pro Tips ⭐
⭐ Leave the hammock alone! Your spider uses it as a bedroom, retreat, and molting area.
⭐ Jumping spiders have incredible vision and may actually watch you.
⭐ A vertical enclosure is much better suited to their natural behavior than a short, horizontal enclosure.
⭐ Good ventilation is just as important as humidity.
⭐ Lightly mist one side rather than soaking the entire enclosure.
⭐ Never spray the spider directly.
⭐ Don't panic if your spider refuses food before a molt.
⭐ Always offer prey appropriate to the spider's size.
⭐ House jumping spiders individually. They are solitary predators and may attack or cannibalize another spider.
⭐ Keep handling close to a surface. These little spiders are excellent jumpers, but they are not built for falls.
Products We Recommend
LINKS COMING SOON...
- Vertical Jumping Spider Enclosure
- Digital Thermometer & Hygrometer
- Fine Mist Spray Bottle
- Cork Bark
- Artificial Plants
- Natural Branches
- Vines
- Jumping Spider Hammock/Retreat Decor
- Flightless Fruit Flies
- Bottle Flies
- Small Feeder Insects
- Springtails
- Bioactive Substrate
Frequently Asked Questions
Do jumping spiders need a large enclosure?
No. Jumping spiders are tiny, and an enclosure that is too large can make finding prey more difficult. A properly designed vertical enclosure with plenty of climbing and retreat opportunities is more important than simply providing a large amount of floor space.
Can I keep two jumping spiders together?
No.
Jumping spiders should be housed individually. They are solitary predators and may attack and eat another jumping spider.
Do jumping spiders need a water bowl?
Usually, no.
They commonly drink tiny droplets from enclosure walls, leaves, and other surfaces. Light misting provides an appropriate drinking source for most captive jumping spiders.
Do jumping spiders need UVB?
UVB is not considered an absolute requirement for Regal Jumping Spiders. A regular day/night lighting cycle is important, and some keepers choose to provide low-level UVB in naturalistic setups.
How often should I mist?
There is no single schedule that works for every enclosure.
Lightly mist one side of the enclosure as needed to provide drinking droplets and maintain appropriate humidity. Allow the enclosure to dry between mistings.
Good ventilation is essential.
Why isn't my jumping spider eating?
Your spider may be preparing to molt, may have recently eaten, may be stressed from a recent move, or may simply not be hungry.
If it is spending time in a silk hammock and refusing food, premolt is a strong possibility.
Never force-feed a jumping spider.
How often do jumping spiders molt?
Young jumping spiders molt frequently as they grow. Adults molt much less often.
The exact frequency varies with species, age, growth rate, temperature, and nutrition.
How long do jumping spiders live?
Regal Jumping Spiders (Phidippus regius) generally live approximately 1–3 years, with females often living longer than males. Individual lifespan can vary considerably.
Care Summary
| Requirement | Value |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | ⭐ Easy–Moderate |
| Adult Size | Approximately ½–1 inch |
| Lifespan | Approximately 1–3 years |
| Enclosure | Vertical, approximately 4" × 4" × 6" minimum for adults |
| Temperature | Approximately 72–82°F |
| Humidity | Approximately 50–70% with good ventilation |
| Diet | Live Invertebrate Prey |
| UVB | Not Required; Low-Level UVB May Be Used |
| Housing | Solitary |
| Water | Drinking Droplets from Light Misting |
FURTHER READING
Jumping spiders are among the most fascinating small invertebrates to keep. Their excellent vision, curious behavior, and active hunting style make them very different from many traditional terrarium pets.
Habitat Setup
A successful jumping spider enclosure should be vertical, secure, and well ventilated.
Because jumping spiders are arboreal hunters, they spend much of their time above the substrate. Give them branches, cork, plants, vines, and elevated surfaces to explore.
Most will eventually build a silk hammock near the top of the enclosure. This is completely normal and should be left undisturbed whenever possible.
Feeding
Jumping spiders are active predators.
Instead of relying on a single feeder, offer appropriately sized prey and adjust the feeding schedule based on your spider's age and body condition.
Small spiderlings may eat fruit flies, while larger juveniles and adults can take appropriately sized flies, roach nymphs, crickets, and other suitable feeder insects.
Never offer prey that is too large or capable of seriously injuring the spider.
Molting
Molting is one of the most important times in a jumping spider's life.
A spider may disappear into its hammock and refuse food for an extended period before molting. This is normal.
Once the molt begins, leave the spider completely undisturbed.
After the molt, give it time for its new exoskeleton to harden before handling or offering larger prey.
Handling and Socialization
Jumping spiders can become remarkably comfortable around people.
Their excellent vision means they may actively watch you and investigate your movements.
The safest way to interact is to allow the spider to walk onto your hand voluntarily.
Always handle close to a safe surface.
A fall from even a short distance can seriously injure a tiny spider.
Health Monitoring
Get to know your spider's normal behavior.
Watch for:
- Activity
- Appetite
- Abdomen size
- Climbing ability
- Web-building
- Molting behavior
- Overall appearance
A healthy jumping spider should generally be alert, coordinated, and capable of climbing and hunting normally.
If something seems wrong, check the basics first:
Temperature → Humidity → Hydration → Food → Molting → Stress
With a properly ventilated enclosure, appropriate hydration, suitable prey, and plenty of opportunities to explore, jumping spiders can make incredibly rewarding little pets.
Happy caring! 🕷️💜
Sources & husbandry notes
This guide was cross-checked against current Phidippus regius husbandry references. Published care recommendations vary somewhat—particularly for humidity and exact enclosure dimensions—so the guide intentionally gives practical ranges rather than pretending there is one magic number. Species-specific requirements should always take priority for jumping spiders other than P. regius.
2026
FREE DOWNLOAD - Jumping Spider Coloring Page Care Guide
