King Snake Care Guide
KINGSNAKE CARE GUIDE
Lifespan: 15–20+ Years • Adult Size: Approximately 2–5+ Feet
QUICK FACTS
Scientific Name: Lampropeltis spp.
Common Name: Kingsnake
Difficulty: Beginner–Intermediate
Adult Size: Approximately 2–5+ feet, depending on species/subspecies
Lifespan: 15–20+ years with proper care
Temperament: Generally hardy, active, and handleable
Activity: Primarily terrestrial; often active during dawn, dusk, and nighttime
Diet: Carnivorous
Humidity: 40–60% average
Basking Surface: 85–90°F
Warm Side: 78–82°F
Cool Side: 70–78°F
Night Temperature: Low–mid 70s°F is acceptable
UVB: Recommended
Housing: One kingsnake per enclosure
IMPORTANT: “Kingsnake” refers to many different Lampropeltis species and subspecies. Adult size and environmental preferences can vary, so always research the specific kingsnake you keep.
ENCLOSURE
Kingsnakes are active, curious snakes that benefit from a spacious enclosure with plenty of opportunities to explore, burrow, and hide.
Adult Enclosure
For an average 3–4 foot kingsnake, a minimum enclosure around:
4' L × 2' W × 2' H
is recommended.
Larger kingsnakes and individuals over 4 feet may require a larger enclosure. The enclosure should allow the snake to fully stretch out while providing appropriate temperature gradients and enrichment.
Babies & Juveniles
Young kingsnakes can be housed in smaller appropriately sized enclosures, but they should still have enough room for movement, hides, and enrichment.
Upgrade the enclosure as your snake grows.
SECURE ENCLOSURE
Kingsnakes are excellent escape artists!
Always use an enclosure with secure doors, locks, clips, or another reliable method of preventing escape.
TEMPERATURE
Kingsnakes need a temperature gradient so they can regulate their body temperature by moving between warmer and cooler areas.
Basking Surface: 85–90°F
Warm Side: 78–82°F
Cool Side: 70–78°F
Night: Low–mid 70s°F is acceptable
Use digital probe thermometers to monitor enclosure temperatures and an infrared temperature gun to check basking surfaces.
Never rely on the thermostat setting alone. Always measure the actual temperatures inside the enclosure.
HEATING
Halogen flood bulbs are an excellent primary daytime heat source.
All heating equipment should be connected to an appropriate thermostat or temperature-control system.
Never use unregulated heating equipment.
Avoid hot rocks, which can cause serious burns.
LIGHTING & UVB
Kingsnakes can survive without UVB, but providing appropriate UVB is recommended for optimal health and natural behavior.
A low-output 5–6% T5 HO UVB fixture is appropriate for many kingsnake enclosures when properly positioned.
LIGHTING
Provide approximately:
12 hours of light / 12 hours of darkness
A seasonal change in lighting hours may also be provided.
Turn visible lighting and daytime heat lamps off at night.
Avoid colored “night bulbs.”
HUMIDITY
Target Humidity: 40–60%
Kingsnakes generally do well with moderate humidity and natural fluctuations throughout the day.
Humidity may naturally be somewhat higher on the cool side and during nighttime.
Specific humidity requirements can vary between kingsnake species and geographic varieties.
HUMID HIDE
A humid hide can be especially helpful during shedding.
Fill the hide with a moisture-retaining material such as damp sphagnum moss.
The humid hide should be damp, not soaking wet.
Check it regularly and replace the material if it becomes dirty or develops mold.
SUBSTRATE
Kingsnakes are active burrowers and benefit from a deep, diggable substrate.
GOOD SUBSTRATE OPTIONS
• Reptile soil
• Coconut fiber
• Natural soil-based mixes
• Bioactive substrate
• Organic topsoil-based mixes
• Aspen can be used in appropriate dry setups
A substrate depth of approximately 4 inches or more allows for natural burrowing and exploration.
AVOID
• Cedar
• Strongly aromatic wood products
• Dusty or heavily scented substrates
• Calcium sand
• Gravel or substrates that cannot support natural digging
Spot-clean waste promptly and replace contaminated substrate.
HIDES & ENRICHMENT
More cover generally means a more confident snake.
Provide at least:
1 Warm Hide: Located near the basking area.
1 Cool Hide: Located on the opposite side of the enclosure.
Hides should be appropriately sized so the snake can curl up inside while making contact with the sides of the hide.
ENRICHMENT
Kingsnakes are curious and active animals.
Provide plenty of opportunities for exploration with:
• Cork bark
• Cork rounds
• Branches
• Sturdy plants
• Artificial foliage
• Leaf litter
• Tunnels
• Burrowing areas
• Multiple pieces of wood or cover
• Additional hides
The goal is to create a complex environment rather than an empty enclosure with only two hides.
WATER
Provide a large, sturdy water dish at all times.
The water dish should:
• Always contain fresh, clean water
• Be difficult for the snake to tip over
• Be large enough for comfortable drinking
• Ideally be large enough for the snake to soak if it chooses
Change water whenever it becomes dirty and clean the water dish regularly.
Do not routinely force your kingsnake to soak.
FEEDING
Kingsnakes are carnivores and should be fed appropriately sized whole-prey items.
GENERAL FEEDING SCHEDULE
Hatchlings: Every 5–7 days
Juveniles: Every 7–10 days
Adults: Every 10–14 days
These are starting guidelines. Feeding frequency should be adjusted based on the individual snake's age, body condition, growth, activity level, and reproductive status.
PREY SIZE
Choose prey that is approximately 10% of the snake's body weight and no more than approximately 1.5× the snake's widest point.
A properly sized meal should create a small, noticeable bulge but should not be excessively large.
PREY OPTIONS
Frozen/thawed prey is strongly recommended.
Appropriate prey may include:
• Mice
• Young rats
• African soft-furred rats
• Quail
• Quail eggs
• Chicks
• Other appropriately sized whole prey
Providing appropriate prey variety can help provide a broader nutritional profile.
FEEDING SAFETY
Never leave live prey unattended with your snake.
Frozen/thawed prey eliminates the risk of prey animals seriously injuring your kingsnake.
Use feeding tongs and allow your snake to eat undisturbed.
SHEDDING
Healthy kingsnakes should normally shed their skin in one complete piece.
Before shedding, you may notice:
• Duller coloration
• Cloudy or blue eyes
• Increased hiding
• Decreased activity
• Reduced appetite
DURING SHED
✓ Maintain appropriate humidity
✓ Provide a humid hide
✓ Provide fresh water
✓ Minimize unnecessary handling
Never pull stuck shed from your snake.
If retained shed repeatedly occurs, especially around the eyes or tail, contact a reptile veterinarian.
HANDLING
Kingsnakes are generally excellent captive snakes and can become very comfortable with regular, gentle handling.
WHEN BRINGING HOME A NEW SNAKE
Allow your new kingsnake time to settle into its enclosure.
Ideally, wait until the snake is eating consistently before beginning regular handling.
HANDLING TIPS
✓ Support the entire body
✓ Let the snake move through your hands
✓ Use slow, calm movements
✓ Avoid grabbing from above
✓ Keep handling sessions short initially
✓ Wash your hands before and after handling
Avoid handling immediately after feeding.
Allow approximately 24–48 hours after feeding before handling.
CLEANING
DAILY
• Remove feces and urates
• Remove contaminated substrate
• Replace dirty water
• Check temperature and humidity
REGULARLY
• Clean the water dish
• Inspect hides and décor
• Check heating equipment
• Check thermostat probes
• Inspect for mold or excessive moisture
DEEP CLEANING
Deep-clean the enclosure and replace bulk substrate periodically, or sooner if the enclosure becomes heavily contaminated.
Bioactive enclosures require a different maintenance routine.
HEALTH CHECK
A healthy kingsnake should generally have:
✓ Clear, alert eyes when not shedding
✓ Smooth, healthy scales
✓ Normal tongue-flicking behavior
✓ Good muscle tone
✓ Regular feeding and digestion
✓ Complete sheds
✓ No visible mites
✓ No persistent mucus around the nose or mouth
✓ No wheezing, clicking, or open-mouth breathing
CONTACT A REPTILE VETERINARIAN IF YOU NOTICE:
⚠️ Difficulty breathing
⚠️ Persistent refusal to eat accompanied by weight loss
⚠️ Repeated regurgitation
⚠️ Swelling or abnormal lumps
⚠️ Mouth lesions or excessive mucus
⚠️ Persistent retained shed
⚠️ Severe or prolonged lethargy
⚠️ Abnormal behavior
⚠️ Rapid or unexplained weight loss
Routine wellness exams and fecal parasite screening can also be valuable, particularly for newly acquired reptiles.
IMPORTANT KINGSNAKE FACT
KEEP KINGSNAKES HOUSED ALONE.
Kingsnakes are not social animals and are well known for eating other snakes, including other kingsnakes.
Never intentionally cohabitate two kingsnakes.
One snake per enclosure is the safest husbandry practice.
INDIGO REPTILE CO. TIP
THE GOAL ISN'T JUST SURVIVAL — IT'S GIVING YOUR SNAKE CHOICES.
A great kingsnake enclosure should provide:
☀️ Warmth
❄️ A cool retreat
💧 Appropriate humidity
🪵 Multiple hides
🌿 Dense cover
🕳️ Deep substrate for burrowing
💡 Appropriate lighting
🐍 Room to explore
When your kingsnake can choose where to warm up, cool down, hide, burrow, explore, and rest, you're allowing it to behave more naturally — and that's the foundation of excellent reptile husbandry.
INDIGO REPTILE CO.
REPTILES • PLANTS • ODDITIES
Husbandry information is provided for educational purposes. Individual animals and kingsnake species/subspecies may have different requirements. When in doubt, consult an experienced reptile veterinarian or qualified reptile husbandry professional.